That top, when hanging on its hanger, might seem dull. It could be one of the most useful things in your closet. Usually it is not that top’s fault. It just hasn’t had enough pants, skirts, layers, shoes and accessories tried on it yet to discover what it can do. The more combinations you can see for a single item, the less random getting dressed can feel, and the less reactive shopping is likely to become.
Pick one simple top, one that is not tight or loose at the shoulders, one that does not need to be shifted all the time. Perhaps it is a white tee, a black long-sleeve, a fine knit or a simple blouse or a plain tank top worn under layers. Look at the fabric, the weight, the neckline and sleeve length and hemline. A light-weight top might work better if it is tucked or layered. A heavier knit might need straighter pants or less bulky jackets. The first way of looking at the piece will give you a clue about the top’s potential before you put any outfit together.
For the first outfit, keep the top close to its most obvious form. Wear the top with the bottom that you usually choose with that piece, such as straight jeans, casual pants or a simple skirt. Wear shoes appropriate to your activities, regardless of how closely they match the outfit. Step in front of the mirror and look closely at your silhouette and note whether you have a defined waist, where the hem cuts the body and whether the shoes work to make the top and bottom seem too heavy or too casual. This outfit should be easy. You probably don’t have to try to get into it.
For the second outfit, work more on the proportions. If the first look had loose pants, choose a more tailored bottom. If the top was worn outside, wear it partially or fully tucked in, or add a belt. Add a layer, like a jacket, cardigan, shirt or blazer, and look at the fabric weights to ensure they seem to work well together. It may be easy to wear a light soft top under a more tailored jacket, but it’s difficult to fit a thick top under a tighter layer, because they may bunch around the shoulder or sleeve. Walk around, sit down, and see whether it still feels comfortable when you’re moving, not just when you’re in still pose.
For the third outfit, allow one element to have a louder voice. Maybe that’s an accent color, a printed scarf, a textured bag, a stronger shoe or a more prominent piece of jewelry. Let the rest of the outfit be simpler and give the accent room to be heard. A neutral-colored top has the potential to contrast more dramatically than others might, but if you have too many accents, the outfit is likely to feel cluttered. An easy exercise is to try an outfit as you planned it and then remove an accessory. The outfit may suddenly become clearer to you, in which case the extra bit was fighting rather than supporting the top and bottom.
Try taking a few quick snapshot mirror photos of each outfit. You may want to capture the front and side view of each. See them side by side. Look at what changed when the shoe changed. Watch what happens to the silhouette when the waist line is more obvious, and notice whether adding a jacket was helpful or if it hid your body. This is often a good moment to realize that a top you thought was difficult can work with a specific pant break or a better jacket length or a certain color palette.
Don’t try to force every basic piece to work a dozen ways. Try to find out how many ways an item can actually work. One piece that makes three outfits for different occasions helps to define that piece and the place it should have in your closet. It could also help you find out what you might be missing before you buy anything more, be it a better jacket, a calmer shoe or pants that might better balance your tops’s proportions. That kind of finding out is the start of a more useful wardrobe.